Mast Rake.
Genoa 1 rake;
• When under 4 knots TWS, gauge released as far as 12. The idea being to get the forestay to sag as much as possible
• 5 knots TWS, gauge 16
• In 6 knots TWS with the ram on 16 most of the forestay tension comes from the mainsheet, the runner is still slack. So that when you have to ease the main the jib powers up and you therefore need to compensate by tightening the headstay.
• 12 knots TWS, gauge 22.
Note; generally in light winds with the number one genoa try to adjust the rake such that the clew of the sail is as close as possible to the turning block (or inside the turning block) at maximum sheet tension.
Halyard tension should be soft in under 7 knots and firm in over 9 knots but never so firm as to be taking too much of the headstay load as this will increase the headstay sag.
Genoa 2 rake;
• 12 knots TWS gauge 21
• 18 knots TWS gauge 24.
• Release the gauge (below 21) if you are caught sailing with the code 2 in lighter winds..
Genoa 3
• 18 knots plus gauge 24.
Gennaker rake;
A1 range is 3 to 8knots TWS depending on the density.
At the bottom of the range of the A1 (less than 5 knots) and below range on the A2 (7-8 knots) we ease the rig back to get the luff of the gennaker to stand up.
Note; It is important to have enough tension on the runners in light wind to prevent the mast (and gennaker luff) from moving.
Check stays and runner;
Light wind; 2-6 knots the check stay should be very firm (number one tape stripe on the runner). The runner should be tensioned to tighten the check stay but not tighten the runner, thus pulling the middle of the mast back to create more depth in the mainsail.
Medium wind; 6-9 knots check stay should be tight (number 2 tape stripe) with the runner 75% of the maximum.
Fresh wind; 10 – 12 knots. (number three stripe on checkstay). Runner should be max load with check stay only tensioned to prevent the mast from panting.
Trim tab;
• 0 degrees downwind (unless more than 10 degrees of heel) then apply 1 degree.
• 8 degrees is the most common number we use upwind.
• Use less tab if you are trying to sail fast (for example, when you are over lay line or trying to roll another boat.)
• Use more tab (up to 9 degrees) at the start or trying to live off another boats hip.
• Use maximum tab when rounding the leeward mark or turning hard in the pre-start. This is very important because the rudder is unloaded and you must ask the keel to take more load….otherwise the boat will slip sideways.
• Use approximately 2 degrees when two sail reaching.
Traveler;
• 2-5 knots TWS. Set such that the boom is on centerline or 200mm above. Meaning the traveler needs to be pulled well to windward. Be careful to not pull the traveler up too high when you are trying to accelerate ( for example, out of tacks or at the start or immediately after rounding the leeward mark)
• 6-8 knots TWS. Set the traveler such that the boom is on or just below (100mm) centerline.
• 9-11 knots with the genoa 1, adust the traveler to keep the bottom of the mainsail under control.
• 12 - 13 knots with the code 2 genoa, boom should be on or just below centerline (100mm)
• 14 knots plus. Set the traveler adjacent to the bottom edge of the aft hatch.
• Use fine adjustments with the traveler and mainsheet to help the boat accelerate rather than using too much helm. It is usually better to accelerate using small combinations of sail trim and helm rather than trying to do it all with one item. But you need to be aggressively persue building speed and try to never let your speeds drop more than 2 tenths below the target. In other words, a high mode is 2 tenths below target and a fast mode is 2 tenths above – don’t get too greedy with the high mode.
Mast tune;
Set mast with the standard jack pressure (185) with the headstay tensioned such that the aft edge of the mast is a few millimeters off the mast collar.
Mast should have 25mm sag in under 7 knots, otherwise should be tuned to be straight using the diagonals.
Check stay and backstay tension effects the sideways tune so it is important to only look at the mast when the backstay and runner is set correctly.
It is possible to use higher jack loads for strong winds (195) but we generally do not change the rigging for different wind speeds and only work with the mast rake.
Other general notes;
• In gusty conditions, the genoa trimmer must be aware of the mainsail trim and release the headsail just before (or as) the gust hits to prevent the mainsail from washing out and allow the mainsheet trimmer to ease the mainsheet or release the traveler.
• There is a big difference between the set up when under powered to over powered. The transition with the genoa one is around 8.5 knots TWS. When powering up in light winds (or waves) the genoa car should be well forward with a a significant amount of depth in the bottom of the sail. Above 8- 9 knots, the foot of the genoa should deflect the leeward shroud. Until 8-9 knots TWS, it is important to trim the genoa as tight as possible against the spreaders to properly balance the boat.
• In gusty conditions and especially with the code 2 and 3 genoa, use the traveler as well as the mainsheet to power and depower the boat. In steady conditions (such as sea breeze) you can mainly play with the mainsheet.
• In stronger winds (above 14 knots) when tacking it is better to use a combination of lowering the traveler out of tacks as well as easing the mainsheet to avoid having to ease the mainsheet too much (which makes the sail too deep and collapses the sail).
• Generally always try to aggressively get the boat speed first before trying to sail high. The foils are relatively small on this boat so speed is essential for them to generate the required lift. (also why it is important to use more tab at lower speeds or when trying to sail high). When sailing in a straight line it is better to err on the side of having more boat speed than trying to sail high. When starting a race, many people try to sail too high too early, before they have built the speed.
• Keep the gennaker pole in the centre in winds below 7 knots TWS or at the bottom of the range of the code 2 gennaker.
• Keep the lose weight (sails, food, lifejackets, anchor etc) forward around the mast, but never in front of the forward hatch, in TWS less than 8 knots. After that, bring the weight back and store unused sails behind the mast with the anchor and other lose items near the aft hatch.
• Downwind move the crew weight back as soon as the boat speed reaches 9 knots.
• Downwind, try to react to the gains and losses in pressure immediately by really concentrating on the changes in heel. If you are late it will require a greater change in course in order to correct the loss or gain in pressure. You should be reacting to even very small changes in heel by compensating with the helm.
• This is a light boat with powerful sails. Therefore in strong winds, (more than 18 knots and especially in more than 22 knots) it is important to steer the boat with the sails. For example, do not try to use too much rudder when bearing away otherwise you will have too much heel and stall. Always ease the sails first THEN bear away with the rudder when the boat is flat. If the boat is too heeled and the rudder is turned it will simply lift the stern out of the water (and then stall). Even in the pre-start it may be important to also ease the genoa to keep the boat flat which of course makes the rudder more efficient. If the rudder stalls, take angle off and then re-apply the angle.
• In strong winds (more than 20 knots) when sailing downwind it is much faster to sail as high as possible while keeping the boat under control. Before doing this the crew weight must be well aft (3 crew behind the helm).
• In strong winds (more than 18 knots) always try to gybe when sailing at maximum speed and put priority on getting the mainsail across. Gennaker trim should be secondary. Even in 25 knots plus, it should still be possible to gybe the mainsheet without tailing it on the winch, by simply bearing away fast to a downwind course (or slightly by the lee) and grabbing the mainsheet at chest height and throwing the boom across. Tailing hard on the new runner also helps pull the boom across. Once the mainsail is gybed the boat can be slowly brought up ( but not too much until the gennaker is full and the speed comes back).
• Mainsail halyard tension; use slightly less (50mm) in winds under 6 knots to help induce twist in the head of the mainsail.
• In powered up conditions it is critical to come out of tacks with full runner tension. The pitman and bowman should work together to ensure the new runner is being loaded as the boat passes through head to wind. Full runner flattens the mainsail (and genoa) and makes the boat a lot easier to steer out of tacks.
Other general notes are on the class website. Sail Fast!
samedi 3 janvier 2009
Mast set up & Trim - Henrik
Mast Rake.
Genoa 1 rake;
* When under 4 knots TWS, gauge released as far as 12. The idea being to get the forestay to sag as much as possible
* 5 knots TWS, gauge 16
* In 6 knots TWS with the ram on 16 most of the forestay tension comes from the mainsheet, the runner is still slack. So that when you have to ease the main the jib powers up and you therefore need to compensate by tightening the headstay.
* 12 knots TWS, gauge 22.
Note; generally in light winds with the number one Genoa try to adjust the rake such that the clew of the sail is as close as possible to the turning block (or inside the turning block) at maximum sheet tension.
Halyard tension should be soft in under 7 knots and firm in over 9 knots but never so firm as to be taking too much of the headstay load as this will increase the headstay sag.
Genoa 2 rake;
* 12 knots TWS gauge 21
* 18 knots TWS gauge 24.
* Release the gauge (below 21) if you are caught sailing with the code 2 in lighter winds..
Genoa 3
18 knots plus gauge 24
________________________________
Do you have any pressure on say 12 16 21 24 ??? as we are on 25 does this mean that the V and D is a little slack so we reach the pressure not at 24 but 25 ?
Thank you
Henrik
Genoa 1 rake;
* When under 4 knots TWS, gauge released as far as 12. The idea being to get the forestay to sag as much as possible
* 5 knots TWS, gauge 16
* In 6 knots TWS with the ram on 16 most of the forestay tension comes from the mainsheet, the runner is still slack. So that when you have to ease the main the jib powers up and you therefore need to compensate by tightening the headstay.
* 12 knots TWS, gauge 22.
Note; generally in light winds with the number one Genoa try to adjust the rake such that the clew of the sail is as close as possible to the turning block (or inside the turning block) at maximum sheet tension.
Halyard tension should be soft in under 7 knots and firm in over 9 knots but never so firm as to be taking too much of the headstay load as this will increase the headstay sag.
Genoa 2 rake;
* 12 knots TWS gauge 21
* 18 knots TWS gauge 24.
* Release the gauge (below 21) if you are caught sailing with the code 2 in lighter winds..
Genoa 3
18 knots plus gauge 24
________________________________
Do you have any pressure on say 12 16 21 24 ??? as we are on 25 does this mean that the V and D is a little slack so we reach the pressure not at 24 but 25 ?
Thank you
Henrik
Crew notes-boat trim - Sailing tips
• Using the trim tab is a powerful adjustment. It is important to think of it in the same way as adjusting the sail trim. The advantage of a trim tab is that the foil effectively becomes asymmetric and therefore the keel area can be reduced. One can also adjust the amount of asymmetry for the different situations. My first impression using the tab on this boat is that it is very easy to use too much. If you use 10 degrees you can physically see the boat moving sideways! It is designed to be a fair fit with the keel fin at a 5 degree angle however, 7 degrees seems to be a good average number when sailing upwind. In stronger winds I consider using less tab angle when the boat is sailing at speeds of 8.3 knots or more. I view the trim tab as operating in a similar fashion to an aeroplane wing flap. Any time the boat speed is really low you should generally use slightly more tab angle to prevent the boat (and foils) from sliding sideways. One should also use more angle when the rudder is being unloaded, such as rounding a bottom mark or at the beginning of a light wind tack. Tactically it should be possible to briefly use 9 degrees or more in order to squeeze someone off. Downwind I suggest using almost no tab unless you are reaching at higher heel angles, where you should use 1-2 degrees. When tacking, the helmsman should release the tab just after the boat has passed head to wind. The mainsail trimmer should pull the tab onto the new side just before or as the boat loads up on the new tack.
• Genoa trim is critical for a good tack and it is important not to release too early. Obviously a flapping genoa is a lot more drag than one that is trimmed so I like my guys to eliminate the number of flaps during a tack to the minimum.
• Good sail trim is highly rewarded in this boat. The mainsail is very big and with full battens one must always be careful of over trimming the headsail. In most conditions some backwind in the mainsail is desirable upwind but not so as to totally invert the battens. So the genoa trimmer needs to keep a constant look out for the mainsail trim and in gusty conditions be ready to ease the genoa car back in the stronger puffs. In choppy conditions it may be better to ease the genoa sheet rather than adjust the genoa car. Upwind, the reaction to trim has to be fast so I prefer the genoa trimmer to be hiking and to use a dedicated grinder to jump inboard and grind the sheet on the central pedestal. The loads on the sheets are not very big so I believe it is advantageous to have a lighter grinder for upwind trimming.
• The headstay ram is a powerful control for adjusting the depth of the genoa and powering or depowering the boat. Once the wind is more than 7-8 knots, I think it pays to sail with a relatively straight headstay. But is very important to sag the headstay in under 6 knots and aggressively so in under 5 knots. Sag also effectively narrows the sheeting angle of the big headsail which is good in light winds but negative above 8 knots.
• Depending on the design of your sails these ranges could change, but as a rough guide for the sizes my feeling for upwind is <11>15 knots. Downwind I believe the cross over between the small and large gennaker is between 7-8 knots.
• The boat balances well at relatively high heel angles upwind because of the symmetric volume distribution, but it is important not to sail the boat too heeled. The boat is a light displacement boat and so it is important to twist the mainsail. The combination of mainsail trim and tab angle is a key adjustment and both controls are operated by the mainsail trimmer. My feeling is that it is better to sail with the mainsail relatively twisted and sail at higher upwind speeds, relying more on the trim tab to produce the height. The optimum rudder angle is between 3-6 degrees and the mainsail trimmer can see both the tab and rudder angle on a readout on the central grinding pedestal. Similarly I do not like to carry the traveler too high, except for in very light winds (under 6 knots) where the traveler can be trimmed well above centreline.
• For winds below 10 knots, I favour leading the gennaker sheets inside. It allows less ease in the sheet at the beginning of the gybe and a faster trim of the new sheet. It also means there is no possibility of the sheet falling under the bow. When in doubt, lead the gennaker sheet on the inside.
• For the gennaker gybes (when the sheet is lead around the outside) the timing of the ease of the sheet is critical. The biggest mistake seems to be trying to float the sail through rather than easing the sheet early while there is still plenty of pressure in the gennaker. The objective is for the gennaker clew to blow as far forward as possible before the new sheet is aggressively trimmed on. Obviously the grinder at the central pedestal must be ready in the low gear with the overdrive function on. The helmsman needs to concentrate on performing a relatively smooth turn with a slight delay in the middle of the gybe to allow the new gennaker sheet to be trimmed in before heading the boat up to a tighter angle. Whoever casts off the old sheet must be sure to control the tension just enough so as to prevent the sheet dropping over the bow.
• Downwind it also seems to be important to press the boat up and sail at higher speeds. The higher the boat speed the more critical it is to position the crew weight aft. As soon as the boat speed exceeds 10 knots it is better to move the crew weight aft. It is important to load the mainsail because this has a positive effect on the flow over the gennaker. It should look slightly overtrimmed compared with the normal trim on a conventional boat.
• When sailing upwind, the topmast backstays are a useful control for mast bend. The check stays should be set so that when the backstay is fully tensioned the mast bend matches the luff curve of the mainsail to produce a fairly flat but controlled mainsail. In light winds the headstay ram should be eased to allow the aft edge of the mast to touch the back of the deck collar which induces a little bit of pre-bend. The backstays do not seem to have a big effect on the headstay tension which is primarily tensioned by the headstay hydraulic ram, but they are still important. The pitman controls the backstays so it is important to establish accurate marks for the various settings. I feel it is important for the pitman to not release the backstay too early when tacking in order to keep the mainsail and genoa as flat as possible as the boat luffs towards head to wind. Ideally the mainsail should be trimmed on a bit leading into a tack to allow the helmsman to use slightly less rudder at the beginning of the tack. The new backstay should obviously be trimmed on during the tack so that the headstay is sufficiently tight coming out of the tack. Only in winds below 6 knots does it pay to carry more sag in the genoa luff.
• It is critical to use the short sheet on the genoa for the gennaker sets. If the genoa is eased too much the gennaker will be harder to hoist and may be caught behind the genoa battens. It is also critical not to hoist too early and to let the apparent boatspeed burn off slightly before hoisting otherwise the sail will blow too far backwards during the hoist. The gennaker is a big sail and the timing of the hoist is important.
• The grinder on the central pedestal is a key position in this boat. They must be aware of all the tactical situations and be set in the correct gear and linked into the correct winch. This grinder can operate both the primary winches and the mainsheet winch. Rounding the bottom mark or when dipping another boat for example, it is usually preferable to top handle most of the genoa and grind the mainsail in to help the boat turn smoothly by using the correct combination of sail trim and rudder.
• Gennaker hoists and drops are an important area to make gains. First the bowman must take care to control the foot of the sail as the tack and pole are being extended. If any part of the foot of the sail is permitted to touch the water (even when the gennaker is already half hoisted) it can result in the sail being trapped in the water. It is important in all sets that the helmsman keeps the boat relatively flat while the gennaker is being hoisted.
In strong winds my advice is to wait until the boat is relatively flat and heading downwind before tightening the gennaker tack. The halyard should be hoisted using the windward primary winch set in overdrive. I advise having two people operating the pit, one for the gennnaker tack and pole controls and one for the halyards. The genoa halyard can be fully released as soon as the gennaker is more than three quarters hoisted because the soft hank system nicely contains the genoa on the foredeck.
For the drops it is important that the helmsman bears off and fully unloads the boat to enable the sail to be pulled in. Again the foot of the gennaker must be controlled by the bowman until the sail is fully lowered. It is possible to use the string line to drop and this may be lead onto the mainsheet winch or one of the primary winches. This type of drop takes excellent coordination with the pitman and grinders to ensure all lines are released at the right instant.
• Crew weight is an important factor and so is good hiking. There are no class rules restricting or governing hiking so only the ISAF rules govern. I like to get everyone other than the pitman (who is tensioning the backstay) and the central grinder hiking out of a tack. Stability through hiking is most important when the boat is accelerating so strong hiking immediately out of tacks and gybes is very important.
• Genoa trim is critical for a good tack and it is important not to release too early. Obviously a flapping genoa is a lot more drag than one that is trimmed so I like my guys to eliminate the number of flaps during a tack to the minimum.
• Good sail trim is highly rewarded in this boat. The mainsail is very big and with full battens one must always be careful of over trimming the headsail. In most conditions some backwind in the mainsail is desirable upwind but not so as to totally invert the battens. So the genoa trimmer needs to keep a constant look out for the mainsail trim and in gusty conditions be ready to ease the genoa car back in the stronger puffs. In choppy conditions it may be better to ease the genoa sheet rather than adjust the genoa car. Upwind, the reaction to trim has to be fast so I prefer the genoa trimmer to be hiking and to use a dedicated grinder to jump inboard and grind the sheet on the central pedestal. The loads on the sheets are not very big so I believe it is advantageous to have a lighter grinder for upwind trimming.
• The headstay ram is a powerful control for adjusting the depth of the genoa and powering or depowering the boat. Once the wind is more than 7-8 knots, I think it pays to sail with a relatively straight headstay. But is very important to sag the headstay in under 6 knots and aggressively so in under 5 knots. Sag also effectively narrows the sheeting angle of the big headsail which is good in light winds but negative above 8 knots.
• Depending on the design of your sails these ranges could change, but as a rough guide for the sizes my feeling for upwind is <11>15 knots. Downwind I believe the cross over between the small and large gennaker is between 7-8 knots.
• The boat balances well at relatively high heel angles upwind because of the symmetric volume distribution, but it is important not to sail the boat too heeled. The boat is a light displacement boat and so it is important to twist the mainsail. The combination of mainsail trim and tab angle is a key adjustment and both controls are operated by the mainsail trimmer. My feeling is that it is better to sail with the mainsail relatively twisted and sail at higher upwind speeds, relying more on the trim tab to produce the height. The optimum rudder angle is between 3-6 degrees and the mainsail trimmer can see both the tab and rudder angle on a readout on the central grinding pedestal. Similarly I do not like to carry the traveler too high, except for in very light winds (under 6 knots) where the traveler can be trimmed well above centreline.
• For winds below 10 knots, I favour leading the gennaker sheets inside. It allows less ease in the sheet at the beginning of the gybe and a faster trim of the new sheet. It also means there is no possibility of the sheet falling under the bow. When in doubt, lead the gennaker sheet on the inside.
• For the gennaker gybes (when the sheet is lead around the outside) the timing of the ease of the sheet is critical. The biggest mistake seems to be trying to float the sail through rather than easing the sheet early while there is still plenty of pressure in the gennaker. The objective is for the gennaker clew to blow as far forward as possible before the new sheet is aggressively trimmed on. Obviously the grinder at the central pedestal must be ready in the low gear with the overdrive function on. The helmsman needs to concentrate on performing a relatively smooth turn with a slight delay in the middle of the gybe to allow the new gennaker sheet to be trimmed in before heading the boat up to a tighter angle. Whoever casts off the old sheet must be sure to control the tension just enough so as to prevent the sheet dropping over the bow.
• Downwind it also seems to be important to press the boat up and sail at higher speeds. The higher the boat speed the more critical it is to position the crew weight aft. As soon as the boat speed exceeds 10 knots it is better to move the crew weight aft. It is important to load the mainsail because this has a positive effect on the flow over the gennaker. It should look slightly overtrimmed compared with the normal trim on a conventional boat.
• When sailing upwind, the topmast backstays are a useful control for mast bend. The check stays should be set so that when the backstay is fully tensioned the mast bend matches the luff curve of the mainsail to produce a fairly flat but controlled mainsail. In light winds the headstay ram should be eased to allow the aft edge of the mast to touch the back of the deck collar which induces a little bit of pre-bend. The backstays do not seem to have a big effect on the headstay tension which is primarily tensioned by the headstay hydraulic ram, but they are still important. The pitman controls the backstays so it is important to establish accurate marks for the various settings. I feel it is important for the pitman to not release the backstay too early when tacking in order to keep the mainsail and genoa as flat as possible as the boat luffs towards head to wind. Ideally the mainsail should be trimmed on a bit leading into a tack to allow the helmsman to use slightly less rudder at the beginning of the tack. The new backstay should obviously be trimmed on during the tack so that the headstay is sufficiently tight coming out of the tack. Only in winds below 6 knots does it pay to carry more sag in the genoa luff.
• It is critical to use the short sheet on the genoa for the gennaker sets. If the genoa is eased too much the gennaker will be harder to hoist and may be caught behind the genoa battens. It is also critical not to hoist too early and to let the apparent boatspeed burn off slightly before hoisting otherwise the sail will blow too far backwards during the hoist. The gennaker is a big sail and the timing of the hoist is important.
• The grinder on the central pedestal is a key position in this boat. They must be aware of all the tactical situations and be set in the correct gear and linked into the correct winch. This grinder can operate both the primary winches and the mainsheet winch. Rounding the bottom mark or when dipping another boat for example, it is usually preferable to top handle most of the genoa and grind the mainsail in to help the boat turn smoothly by using the correct combination of sail trim and rudder.
• Gennaker hoists and drops are an important area to make gains. First the bowman must take care to control the foot of the sail as the tack and pole are being extended. If any part of the foot of the sail is permitted to touch the water (even when the gennaker is already half hoisted) it can result in the sail being trapped in the water. It is important in all sets that the helmsman keeps the boat relatively flat while the gennaker is being hoisted.
In strong winds my advice is to wait until the boat is relatively flat and heading downwind before tightening the gennaker tack. The halyard should be hoisted using the windward primary winch set in overdrive. I advise having two people operating the pit, one for the gennnaker tack and pole controls and one for the halyards. The genoa halyard can be fully released as soon as the gennaker is more than three quarters hoisted because the soft hank system nicely contains the genoa on the foredeck.
For the drops it is important that the helmsman bears off and fully unloads the boat to enable the sail to be pulled in. Again the foot of the gennaker must be controlled by the bowman until the sail is fully lowered. It is possible to use the string line to drop and this may be lead onto the mainsheet winch or one of the primary winches. This type of drop takes excellent coordination with the pitman and grinders to ensure all lines are released at the right instant.
• Crew weight is an important factor and so is good hiking. There are no class rules restricting or governing hiking so only the ISAF rules govern. I like to get everyone other than the pitman (who is tensioning the backstay) and the central grinder hiking out of a tack. Stability through hiking is most important when the boat is accelerating so strong hiking immediately out of tacks and gybes is very important.
RC 44 NED 18 - Theis Palm sail design
Mast rake 2.5 deg to 4.3 deg 1.0 deg is 80 mm on headstay
G1 0 to 11 TWS 4.3 deg to 3.7 deg
4 TWS gauge 12
5 TWS gauge 16
6 TWS gauge 16 slack runner
12 TWS gauge 22
G1.3 12600 DPI 800 L. G241005007049
G1.4T 12600 DPI 800LCustom. G141003005049
G1.5M 14700 DPI 800L aramid lince. G239004005049 Skirting patch 1.5 m back
Luff 17350 mm
Leech 16460 mm
Foot 7240 mm
LP 6900 mm
Mast rake 2.5 deg to 3.7 deg
G2 9 to 18 TWS
10 TWS gauge 18
12 TWS gauge 21
18 TWS gauge 24
G2.3 380L_Jib_16800 Hybred. J142003006050
Luff 17300 mm
Leech 16300 mm
Foot 5620 mm
LP 5350 mm
Mast rake 2.5 deg to 3.7 deg
G3 16 to 25 TWS
16 TWS gauge 21
18 TWS gauge 24
25 TWS gauge 24
G2.3 380L_Jib_19600 Hybred. J139002-002050
Luff 15600 mm
Leech 14400 mm
Foot 5500 mm
LP 5100 mm
G1 0 to 11 TWS 4.3 deg to 3.7 deg
4 TWS gauge 12
5 TWS gauge 16
6 TWS gauge 16 slack runner
12 TWS gauge 22
G1.3 12600 DPI 800 L. G241005007049
G1.4T 12600 DPI 800LCustom. G141003005049
G1.5M 14700 DPI 800L aramid lince. G239004005049 Skirting patch 1.5 m back
Luff 17350 mm
Leech 16460 mm
Foot 7240 mm
LP 6900 mm
Mast rake 2.5 deg to 3.7 deg
G2 9 to 18 TWS
10 TWS gauge 18
12 TWS gauge 21
18 TWS gauge 24
G2.3 380L_Jib_16800 Hybred. J142003006050
Luff 17300 mm
Leech 16300 mm
Foot 5620 mm
LP 5350 mm
Mast rake 2.5 deg to 3.7 deg
G3 16 to 25 TWS
16 TWS gauge 21
18 TWS gauge 24
25 TWS gauge 24
G2.3 380L_Jib_19600 Hybred. J139002-002050
Luff 15600 mm
Leech 14400 mm
Foot 5500 mm
LP 5100 mm
Christian Monberg - practice event in Skovshoved the 13th – 14 th of november
17. november 2008
Christian Monberg
Project title: RC 44 “Pink inside” – so fare
NOTE description: Notes doing our practice event in Skovshoved the 13th – 14 th of november
Note number: 002
Notes from the practice in Skovshoved
Rigging:
We spent a lot of time working on out base-setting. As we had the right rake, we could now start to tighten up the whole rig. As a great credit to us, we ended up on the exact same numbers as Oracle on the Preasure@.
Base setting: 10 knts
From the front to the back
Measured from bar-top top bar-bottom
SB:
1: 107,80 mm
2: 92,10 mm
3: 133,00 mm
PORT:
1: 108,60 mm
2: 98,00 mm
3: 136,20 mm
Max of HS
Jackpreasure@185
Max on HS
Jackpreasure@260
For swingmeasure:
Bass: 1790,00 mm (from top deck to top of whiteband)
Whiteband → down: 100,00 mm
HS → down: 1565,00 mm
Observations from the water
Upwind:
It is on the upwind leg very important to have enough tap on as it unloads the rudder there therefore allows you to ad more pressure to the helm.
There seems to be a borderline of how to trim the main sail around 17 knts.
In less than 17 knts, it is all about leech bite. Rather bring the traveler further down and ad more leech tension.
In more then 17 knts it about twist, since you never will have the whole main dragging. Therefore take the traveler up 30-40 mm and ease the main a fair bit.
Best regards
Christian Monberg
Christian Monberg
Project title: RC 44 “Pink inside” – so fare
NOTE description: Notes doing our practice event in Skovshoved the 13th – 14 th of november
Note number: 002
Notes from the practice in Skovshoved
Rigging:
We spent a lot of time working on out base-setting. As we had the right rake, we could now start to tighten up the whole rig. As a great credit to us, we ended up on the exact same numbers as Oracle on the Preasure@.
Base setting: 10 knts
From the front to the back
Measured from bar-top top bar-bottom
SB:
1: 107,80 mm
2: 92,10 mm
3: 133,00 mm
PORT:
1: 108,60 mm
2: 98,00 mm
3: 136,20 mm
Max of HS
Jackpreasure@185
Max on HS
Jackpreasure@260
For swingmeasure:
Bass: 1790,00 mm (from top deck to top of whiteband)
Whiteband → down: 100,00 mm
HS → down: 1565,00 mm
Observations from the water
Upwind:
It is on the upwind leg very important to have enough tap on as it unloads the rudder there therefore allows you to ad more pressure to the helm.
There seems to be a borderline of how to trim the main sail around 17 knts.
In less than 17 knts, it is all about leech bite. Rather bring the traveler further down and ad more leech tension.
In more then 17 knts it about twist, since you never will have the whole main dragging. Therefore take the traveler up 30-40 mm and ease the main a fair bit.
Best regards
Christian Monberg
RC44 no 18 Mast set up - By Dirk
Pieter,
Good to hear you are injoying your new boat.
The numbers Russell is using are pretty close. I always use a max jacknumber of 290 but that is with the ram all the way in. With the ram all the way in the mast in forward in the gate and the caps are very tight the D3's are firm and the D2's are not yet slack but not firm the D1's are always slack.
I believe that your guys measured the turnbuckles when we were in Trieste so you should be very close.
Please check that the turnbuckles that sit in the spreader bar are all the way screwed in and are locktided. If these are not all the way in than the lenght of the D will be different.
Keep playning with the mast tune.
sailing upwind in 17+ TWS have the rig at 25
sailing upwind in 12-17 TWs have the rig at 22
Sailing upwind in 9-12 TWS have the rig at 19
Sailing upwind in 6-9TWS Have the rig at 15-17
Below this maybe have it as far back as 13
The mast should start to sack from about 9 knts which shouldn't need any adjustment as the forestay ease will ease the d's relative more that the caps. The caps should never go slack!?!
The runner: Anything over 11 TWS grind it one as hard as you can plus a little extra. this makes a huge difference for the overall performance. The winches do break and so do the truningblocks so please check them often.
Below 11 : just go by feel if the guys sailing next to you can hike eralier than you can you have to ease the rig back and sail with a looser runner to help power the boat up. We often sail with everyone hiking and have no runner tension and everything is on the mainsheet with a high traveller + 4. When you start lowering the traveler you should take a little runner to keep the forestay in the same place.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions.
Dirk
Good to hear you are injoying your new boat.
The numbers Russell is using are pretty close. I always use a max jacknumber of 290 but that is with the ram all the way in. With the ram all the way in the mast in forward in the gate and the caps are very tight the D3's are firm and the D2's are not yet slack but not firm the D1's are always slack.
I believe that your guys measured the turnbuckles when we were in Trieste so you should be very close.
Please check that the turnbuckles that sit in the spreader bar are all the way screwed in and are locktided. If these are not all the way in than the lenght of the D will be different.
Keep playning with the mast tune.
sailing upwind in 17+ TWS have the rig at 25
sailing upwind in 12-17 TWs have the rig at 22
Sailing upwind in 9-12 TWS have the rig at 19
Sailing upwind in 6-9TWS Have the rig at 15-17
Below this maybe have it as far back as 13
The mast should start to sack from about 9 knts which shouldn't need any adjustment as the forestay ease will ease the d's relative more that the caps. The caps should never go slack!?!
The runner: Anything over 11 TWS grind it one as hard as you can plus a little extra. this makes a huge difference for the overall performance. The winches do break and so do the truningblocks so please check them often.
Below 11 : just go by feel if the guys sailing next to you can hike eralier than you can you have to ease the rig back and sail with a looser runner to help power the boat up. We often sail with everyone hiking and have no runner tension and everything is on the mainsheet with a high traveller + 4. When you start lowering the traveler you should take a little runner to keep the forestay in the same place.
Hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions.
Dirk
Summary PH observations oct-dec 08
Herewith combined the summary of all the remarks that I have scribbled down after each de-brief since we started mid October in Portoroz that might be of use for all of us.Even though it is roughly divided into the positions on board also look into the total.Items of interest for your position might be somewhere else.And it is the totality of the team that makes the boat move.......These remarks are not meant to criticise YOU or anybody else.They have been made while sailing with many different people on all positions and from a lot of observations of other boats from the RIB.Many remarks are also not my own.I just wrote them down because I thought they were good to keep.
So don't shoot the messenger,please......!Uhhhh, the messenger will probably shoot back anyway, so take care.
GENERAL:
-boat must before every dock-out (racing or training) be 100%.
-dock -outs on time
-before dock-out or after dock-in:boat is no social area; no talking,joking etc.Get on the pier and allow the ones who have work to do the room and quiet to concentrate on it.
-return tools and other equipment exactly where it came from.We are carrying too much junk on board, but we donot know what.
-minimise handling,tight flaking, moving etc of sails.North is very strong on this,it really damages the yarns.And never ever stand or sit on a sail.
Preferably during an event we leave the sails we use on the boat and not on the dock.Sails should stay out of the sun and out of heat ,not > 40 degr.C.
It is partly a matter of cost.But even more: we only get a limited amount of sail labels a year so the longer we keep the sails healthy the longer we are fast !
-keep boat tidy, especially concentrate garbage and drinking water in specific locations.
-after a finish first reorganise boat,prepare lay on deck the next possible genoa, wool kite etc.
-concentrate on boatbalance as if it where a 49er or a 470.Around topmark,to and around spreader mark.Before doing anything like hoisting etc boat must be FLAT and UNDER CONTROL.This means everybody except MAYBE one man full hike .
-order to hoist needs to come from helm or tactician sometimes some time is needed to get the boat undercontrol first.So wait!
-at tacks stay full hike.If necessary only one guy in is allowed to prepare runners etc."Stand by tack" means only we could , possibly , tack soon, wake up.BUT keep HIKING.Please confirm and relay "stand by tack"-who?
-after a tack get to full hike asap.Only very few people are needed in the cockpit for only a short time.
-downwind strong winds: come behind the steering wheels quickly.
-keep spi sheets out of water and in cleats.
Re-check as soon as people are out on the rail.
-bounce new spi sheet in gybe (who is best positioned ?)
-halyard genoa 1 : not too tight
-upwind very light wind:
2 men lying, or better, sitting legs over rail nose on knees on foredeck.
(bow in water/stern up,low windage.Seen on Russell's team Trieste)
-windy: donot start sneak too early.Creates a lot of unrest in boat and risky.Once sneak starts work quicker.
-during sneak: 2nd person (floater or grinder) to help bowman pull spi out of hatch.There is a lot of resistance around the hatch
-bowman needs support from the cockpit: keep an eye on him
*sneak
*lowering jib/pulling leech on foredeck by pulling sheet and/or leech
*release both spi sheets and feed them to him so he does not need force
*pull spi out of hatch
*etc
-in all windstrengths sweat the spi halyard ;in winds > 12 kn supported by a winch that takes over when sweating gets too heavy.But first 75% seems much faster if also sweated also in strong wind.
-spi change if prepared well in it's bag our record: 1min 45sec but mostly much longer
-jib change our record 5 min. but mostly much longer
These 2 maneuvres can be trained quite far while boat is moored.Sail does not need to be hoisted.
-immediate gybe around the spreadre mark is often tactically of super importance.ALWAYS be ready to immediately fast-gybe if not gybehoisting.If under jib 3 leave it up, just keep it tight (who?)so spi blows fwd.and around.Jib 2 and 1 need not be lowered 100% to be able to gybe.
BOW:
-any sails ,incl spi's,on board always packed the right way ready to use.Otherwise it is ballast
-practice with .......pit/float/grind?(organise yourselves).....superfast jib changes and superfast spi changes.Can be done at the dock ,no need to hoist.Record time.
-handle sails with 100% care.Also when lowering the genoa under spi.
Spi gets holed by antiskid on foredeck.Other sails the yarns get badly damaged by bending.
-! ! spend MINIMUM time on foredeck.Lowering of jib can mostly be done halfway the foredeck.Donot waste time trying to lower the jib/genoa 100%.Just get it partly down,get the battens under control (spi sheet in gybe!)and the body of the sail under the foredeck bungee .Always check lazy spi sheet off the lowered jib/forestay and come back.
-Jib 3 can stay up , it does not hurt the spi and save s a lot of movement on the foredeck in strong winds
-close the spi hatch !
-always wear or atleast have ready a bosun's chair (is that the word?)
-sneaking/spi tack forward: minimise time struggling.Organise help from behind.Take halyard well forward,especially when under genoa 1.
Keep it all under control ! !
-wool both head and tack of spi in windy conditions and before /in between races.
Find a quick system
-be very exact and systematic (marks!) with attaching retrieverline, knots etc..Every spi it's own retriever line blocks.
PIT:
-at spi drop blow tackline before releasing bowsprit.
But donot leave bowsprit out any more time than absolutely necessary!
-RELEASE leeward runner! In time !!
Ducking/ rounding a mark/ gybing/pre-start!!
But also beware that too much slack can create a fuck-up around boom end especially in pre-starts so follow what is going on
-TIGHTEN new runner ASAP...EARLY.
When tacking it allows boat to sail out of tack ,it allows you to pull new runner with less force,it allows to unload old runner more smoothly without shocking the mast.
When gybing it helps to keep the mast in one piece.
!We have to love this mast; the new masts are shit !
-Arrange yourself who helps you with the runners in which maneuver.Float or Bowman.
-when spitack is brought to bowsprit help bowman -and avoid spi blowing away - by NOT any TENSION on spi halyard .Halyard and spi head must get around jib, even more around genoa.
-always load up winches fully: at least 6 turns of rope.
It greatly prolongs life of winches and it gives you much more power.
- ! absolutely BLOW spi halyard at windy drop ! !
-also blow genoa/jib halyard at drop.
-get bowsprit in after spi drop ASAP ! And bowsprit out only after rounding top mark when is safe to do so
FLOAT:
-keep eye on everything happening, help out others BEFORE things happen or start to go wrong
-from cockpit whip free lazy spi sheet from jib/forestay if necessary
-tail new spi sheet in gybe.Or bounce.Discuss with spi trimmer.
-call wind (gusts,shifts)
-call waves.
-agree with pit who helps him with runners etc.
-help grinding
-agree with pit and grind who helps spi out of hatch, who sweats spi halyard,who sweats jib halyard, who helps grinding
GRIND:
- see many of the remarks made under bow/pit./float/general
-prepare retriever line on primary winch before drop
-proactively help others,wide angle view.
-call target angles downwind
GENOA/SPI TRIMMER:
-in light winds often advantage to release spi halyard 30-50 cm.Most boats in the fleet do not do this .
-halyard Genoa 1 can usually be relatively soft
-pass retriever line forward before drop
-bounce spi sheet in gybe (is trimmer best positioned?? maybe better float?)
-constant trim communication with main and helm
MAIN TRIMMER:
-communicate continuously with genoa and helm
-steer boat with sails
-throughout fleet very different approach to using traveller.Generally PH feels better with a bit less twist and traveller earlier out, mainsheet a bit tight and maybe some vang on.
-very EARLY DUMP of mainsheet at windward mark, ducking ,pre-starts etc.
Better too much too early than a bit too little too late.
-handle sheet aggressively downwind,especially strong winds
-concentrate on speed between upwind and spreader mark.After dump for bearing off at topmark main can be too loose for speed.Do not interfere with rest of crew.
-downwind strong wind: come back between the steering wheels and trim from there
HELM:
-in waves support wheel with knee to calm movements
-tacking in waves: relatively swift turn.Goal is to avoid a wave hitting while bow is on the wind.If waves close together get them to hit after turn
-tacking : after turn get to or under new course asap.Build speed to target very quickly ! ! Loss of heighth is mostly compensated by gain in bite from keel as speed returns.
-PH to communicate much more on rudder feel with main & genoa
-bearing off: PH better communication with main about dumping sheet
-light wind maneuvres: S L O W turns ! Keep boat moving ! !
Wide turns around marks.Keep pressure in the sails in the turns.
-light wind gybes: bear down slowly, keep downwind until 50% of spi is past forestay, then smoothly but swiftly heat up and fill spi by steering up .PH to stay on old windward side until visual on spi past forestay.Go up a bit past target and when speed reached come down a bit again.
Mainsail is gybed as late as possible.
-light-medium wind gybes: bear down slowly, check spi 40% past forestay and continue (if possible) turn up accelerating the turn.Heat it all up a bit more than in light wind
Communicate with spitrimmer all the way.
-strong wind gybes:bear off quickly, possibly to 5degr past downwind.Mainsail to be gybed ASAP ! ! As SOON AS spi is through fluently heat up to course.Keep boat on max speed and /or accelerate out of gybe as much as possible.But take care not to overheat after the gybe.Keep eye on speed of getting spi sheets in, "can they keep up ?"
Do NOT stop turning movement in middle of turn UNLESS there is some fuck-up.
-strong wind hoist: steer FAR DOWN just before hoist, feel boat fully under control/ pressure off , only then PH to give hoisting call.
-strong wind downwind: steer on feel and pressure, less on target instrument angles.They are too slow.Keep boat well pressured up, accept a significant heel so sail quite high and fast through the water.
-gybehoist: bear off far down.Stay on that (STB) tack till spi is at least 50% up.Only then gybe (to Port) , and stay LOW / DOWNWIND until spi is 100%, TOTALLY,past forestay. Only then luff up to course.
Jib 3 can remain up in this maneuvre ,even all downwind .During gybe it needs to be kept tight from the mast to allow wind to blow spi around..(Floater?)
TACTICIAN:
-handle reriever line fwd and tail retriever.Call 2 1 stop.
-just before drop pull in retriever line slack for 105%
-communicate
-be clear what thinking process is
So don't shoot the messenger,please......!Uhhhh, the messenger will probably shoot back anyway, so take care.
GENERAL:
-boat must before every dock-out (racing or training) be 100%.
-dock -outs on time
-before dock-out or after dock-in:boat is no social area; no talking,joking etc.Get on the pier and allow the ones who have work to do the room and quiet to concentrate on it.
-return tools and other equipment exactly where it came from.We are carrying too much junk on board, but we donot know what.
-minimise handling,tight flaking, moving etc of sails.North is very strong on this,it really damages the yarns.And never ever stand or sit on a sail.
Preferably during an event we leave the sails we use on the boat and not on the dock.Sails should stay out of the sun and out of heat ,not > 40 degr.C.
It is partly a matter of cost.But even more: we only get a limited amount of sail labels a year so the longer we keep the sails healthy the longer we are fast !
-keep boat tidy, especially concentrate garbage and drinking water in specific locations.
-after a finish first reorganise boat,prepare lay on deck the next possible genoa, wool kite etc.
-concentrate on boatbalance as if it where a 49er or a 470.Around topmark,to and around spreader mark.Before doing anything like hoisting etc boat must be FLAT and UNDER CONTROL.This means everybody except MAYBE one man full hike .
-order to hoist needs to come from helm or tactician sometimes some time is needed to get the boat undercontrol first.So wait!
-at tacks stay full hike.If necessary only one guy in is allowed to prepare runners etc."Stand by tack" means only we could , possibly , tack soon, wake up.BUT keep HIKING.Please confirm and relay "stand by tack"-who?
-after a tack get to full hike asap.Only very few people are needed in the cockpit for only a short time.
-downwind strong winds: come behind the steering wheels quickly.
-keep spi sheets out of water and in cleats.
Re-check as soon as people are out on the rail.
-bounce new spi sheet in gybe (who is best positioned ?)
-halyard genoa 1 : not too tight
-upwind very light wind:
2 men lying, or better, sitting legs over rail nose on knees on foredeck.
(bow in water/stern up,low windage.Seen on Russell's team Trieste)
-windy: donot start sneak too early.Creates a lot of unrest in boat and risky.Once sneak starts work quicker.
-during sneak: 2nd person (floater or grinder) to help bowman pull spi out of hatch.There is a lot of resistance around the hatch
-bowman needs support from the cockpit: keep an eye on him
*sneak
*lowering jib/pulling leech on foredeck by pulling sheet and/or leech
*release both spi sheets and feed them to him so he does not need force
*pull spi out of hatch
*etc
-in all windstrengths sweat the spi halyard ;in winds > 12 kn supported by a winch that takes over when sweating gets too heavy.But first 75% seems much faster if also sweated also in strong wind.
-spi change if prepared well in it's bag our record: 1min 45sec but mostly much longer
-jib change our record 5 min. but mostly much longer
These 2 maneuvres can be trained quite far while boat is moored.Sail does not need to be hoisted.
-immediate gybe around the spreadre mark is often tactically of super importance.ALWAYS be ready to immediately fast-gybe if not gybehoisting.If under jib 3 leave it up, just keep it tight (who?)so spi blows fwd.and around.Jib 2 and 1 need not be lowered 100% to be able to gybe.
BOW:
-any sails ,incl spi's,on board always packed the right way ready to use.Otherwise it is ballast
-practice with .......pit/float/grind?(organise yourselves).....superfast jib changes and superfast spi changes.Can be done at the dock ,no need to hoist.Record time.
-handle sails with 100% care.Also when lowering the genoa under spi.
Spi gets holed by antiskid on foredeck.Other sails the yarns get badly damaged by bending.
-! ! spend MINIMUM time on foredeck.Lowering of jib can mostly be done halfway the foredeck.Donot waste time trying to lower the jib/genoa 100%.Just get it partly down,get the battens under control (spi sheet in gybe!)and the body of the sail under the foredeck bungee .Always check lazy spi sheet off the lowered jib/forestay and come back.
-Jib 3 can stay up , it does not hurt the spi and save s a lot of movement on the foredeck in strong winds
-close the spi hatch !
-always wear or atleast have ready a bosun's chair (is that the word?)
-sneaking/spi tack forward: minimise time struggling.Organise help from behind.Take halyard well forward,especially when under genoa 1.
Keep it all under control ! !
-wool both head and tack of spi in windy conditions and before /in between races.
Find a quick system
-be very exact and systematic (marks!) with attaching retrieverline, knots etc..Every spi it's own retriever line blocks.
PIT:
-at spi drop blow tackline before releasing bowsprit.
But donot leave bowsprit out any more time than absolutely necessary!
-RELEASE leeward runner! In time !!
Ducking/ rounding a mark/ gybing/pre-start!!
But also beware that too much slack can create a fuck-up around boom end especially in pre-starts so follow what is going on
-TIGHTEN new runner ASAP...EARLY.
When tacking it allows boat to sail out of tack ,it allows you to pull new runner with less force,it allows to unload old runner more smoothly without shocking the mast.
When gybing it helps to keep the mast in one piece.
!We have to love this mast; the new masts are shit !
-Arrange yourself who helps you with the runners in which maneuver.Float or Bowman.
-when spitack is brought to bowsprit help bowman -and avoid spi blowing away - by NOT any TENSION on spi halyard .Halyard and spi head must get around jib, even more around genoa.
-always load up winches fully: at least 6 turns of rope.
It greatly prolongs life of winches and it gives you much more power.
- ! absolutely BLOW spi halyard at windy drop ! !
-also blow genoa/jib halyard at drop.
-get bowsprit in after spi drop ASAP ! And bowsprit out only after rounding top mark when is safe to do so
FLOAT:
-keep eye on everything happening, help out others BEFORE things happen or start to go wrong
-from cockpit whip free lazy spi sheet from jib/forestay if necessary
-tail new spi sheet in gybe.Or bounce.Discuss with spi trimmer.
-call wind (gusts,shifts)
-call waves.
-agree with pit who helps him with runners etc.
-help grinding
-agree with pit and grind who helps spi out of hatch, who sweats spi halyard,who sweats jib halyard, who helps grinding
GRIND:
- see many of the remarks made under bow/pit./float/general
-prepare retriever line on primary winch before drop
-proactively help others,wide angle view.
-call target angles downwind
GENOA/SPI TRIMMER:
-in light winds often advantage to release spi halyard 30-50 cm.Most boats in the fleet do not do this .
-halyard Genoa 1 can usually be relatively soft
-pass retriever line forward before drop
-bounce spi sheet in gybe (is trimmer best positioned?? maybe better float?)
-constant trim communication with main and helm
MAIN TRIMMER:
-communicate continuously with genoa and helm
-steer boat with sails
-throughout fleet very different approach to using traveller.Generally PH feels better with a bit less twist and traveller earlier out, mainsheet a bit tight and maybe some vang on.
-very EARLY DUMP of mainsheet at windward mark, ducking ,pre-starts etc.
Better too much too early than a bit too little too late.
-handle sheet aggressively downwind,especially strong winds
-concentrate on speed between upwind and spreader mark.After dump for bearing off at topmark main can be too loose for speed.Do not interfere with rest of crew.
-downwind strong wind: come back between the steering wheels and trim from there
HELM:
-in waves support wheel with knee to calm movements
-tacking in waves: relatively swift turn.Goal is to avoid a wave hitting while bow is on the wind.If waves close together get them to hit after turn
-tacking : after turn get to or under new course asap.Build speed to target very quickly ! ! Loss of heighth is mostly compensated by gain in bite from keel as speed returns.
-PH to communicate much more on rudder feel with main & genoa
-bearing off: PH better communication with main about dumping sheet
-light wind maneuvres: S L O W turns ! Keep boat moving ! !
Wide turns around marks.Keep pressure in the sails in the turns.
-light wind gybes: bear down slowly, keep downwind until 50% of spi is past forestay, then smoothly but swiftly heat up and fill spi by steering up .PH to stay on old windward side until visual on spi past forestay.Go up a bit past target and when speed reached come down a bit again.
Mainsail is gybed as late as possible.
-light-medium wind gybes: bear down slowly, check spi 40% past forestay and continue (if possible) turn up accelerating the turn.Heat it all up a bit more than in light wind
Communicate with spitrimmer all the way.
-strong wind gybes:bear off quickly, possibly to 5degr past downwind.Mainsail to be gybed ASAP ! ! As SOON AS spi is through fluently heat up to course.Keep boat on max speed and /or accelerate out of gybe as much as possible.But take care not to overheat after the gybe.Keep eye on speed of getting spi sheets in, "can they keep up ?"
Do NOT stop turning movement in middle of turn UNLESS there is some fuck-up.
-strong wind hoist: steer FAR DOWN just before hoist, feel boat fully under control/ pressure off , only then PH to give hoisting call.
-strong wind downwind: steer on feel and pressure, less on target instrument angles.They are too slow.Keep boat well pressured up, accept a significant heel so sail quite high and fast through the water.
-gybehoist: bear off far down.Stay on that (STB) tack till spi is at least 50% up.Only then gybe (to Port) , and stay LOW / DOWNWIND until spi is 100%, TOTALLY,past forestay. Only then luff up to course.
Jib 3 can remain up in this maneuvre ,even all downwind .During gybe it needs to be kept tight from the mast to allow wind to blow spi around..(Floater?)
TACTICIAN:
-handle reriever line fwd and tail retriever.Call 2 1 stop.
-just before drop pull in retriever line slack for 105%
-communicate
-be clear what thinking process is
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